~ General Faq's ~

Q-1 - I want to start recycling Dow Aircraft Deicing Fluid # 146 AR" down at our local airport. It's for deicing the windshields and wings of aircraft..I think its a "diethylene Glycol" based formula...can/should I take the recycling job ??


A-1 - NO !!...don't even consider it..the liability issue is intense...every year you hear of a disaster caused by similar topics. There is a whole different agency (F.A.A.) and they will be on you like a cheap suit...stay on the ground or in the the water...but don't go in the air with your recycling service...


Q-2 - I want to start recycling "Dow Therm SR-1"...its being used in a cooling tower..the information I have says that it's approximately 95% ethylene glycol with some dipotassium phosphate and water...can/should I take the recycling job ?? and how do I treat it??


A-2 - Yes !!...take the job...jobs like that are usually "money runs" ...you will have to figure out the logistics though (loop into the system..figure out gallonage...flow rate o f the ARU should be figured low..2 GPM ??...how long to run the fluid so that it passes through the ARU 1 1/2 times...or....do it a barrel at a time??) ARU fortifier works great in "Dow Therm SR-1"...you probably won't have to adjust freeze point or pH because they do not dilute it when in use..proper freeze point is not an issue here (unless somehow they diluted it..at which point add EG full strength or auto antifreeze) proper pH should be between 9.5 and 11.5 (use potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hyd roxide, when possible to bring up pH if the ARU fortifier doesn't bring it up to around 10)


Q-3 - I have a deal cooking to get some pure ethylene glycol cheap..can I use it instead of virgin antifreeze to adjust the freeze point ??


A-3 - Yes...virgin antifreeze is 93.5% to 97% pure ethylene glycol anyway...so go ahead..just make sure that its not contaminated..check pH , freeze point and the overall appearance..and ask questions about what it was originally used for...if you are not sure of "pure"...call in before you make the purchase...


Q-4 - Chlorides ?!!?..I keep hearing about chlorides..are there any chlorides in the ARU fortifier ??


A-4 - Chlorides occur in water - not fortifier, and there are no chlorides in the ARU fortifier. If the antifreeze was diluted with distilled water (as it was supposed to be) there won't be any chlorides. A lot of city water has chlorides in it, but if your pH is between 9 and 11 chlorides won't hurt anything anyway.... a lot of mechanics feel a little chloride helps keep the water channels spic and span .....


Q-5 - What happens if I use too much of Hi-Tech's anti-foam concentrate ??


A-5 - With too much anti-foam concentrate the fluid will get gummy (its the silicone in the formula that causes this)..start out with 2 oz. then work up 1 oz. at a time - some areas never need it - others can't do a job without it.


Q-6 - Whats the difference between high silicate and low silicate antifreeze ?? Who makes it ?? How do I tell the difference ??


A-6 - Low silicate antifreeze has 200 ppm or less, regular (high silicate) has more than 200 ppm. Most of what you run into is low silicate...Prestone and Shell zone both make a high silicate antifreeze (Prestone 1500 ppm??) ..you will usually have to ask for high silicate. There is a machine that tests for silicate content but it costs approx. $200,000.00...a little silicate is good because it works as an inhibitor...too much silicate can cause silica-gel (green go)...ARU fortifier contains no silicate..


Q-7 - Electrolysis ?!!?..I keep hearing about electrolysis...When does it occur ?? What causes it ?? How is it dealt with ??


A-7 - Electrolysis occurs when negative and positive poles are set up. Mainly due to dissimilar metals in the system. Electrolysis can occur with as little as 1000 ppm of conductivity. The more solids dissolved ..the more current you have...the higher the conductivity will be..the more likely electrolysis will occur. ARU fortifier contains nitrite which picks up free oxygen to prevent oxidation then becomes nitrate which forms a monomolecular film on metallic surfaces to inhibit electrolysis. Most heavy equipment will require additional protection..either S.C.A.'s ( Supplementary Coolant Additives) and/or treated coolant filters regardless of whether you are running virgin or recycled antifreeze to insure against electrolysis...if you use demineralized water only, there is little to no chance of electroylsis...

Q-8 - How much fortifier do I have to add to a 55 gallon barrel to hit spec ?? (9 to 11 pH)

A-8 - You will never have to add more than 32 oz. of ARU Fortifier to a 55 gallon drum to properly inhibit (unless there is severe salt, sodium,
chloride content - then double the amount minimum - the only time this should be an issue, is when you have prior knowledge of such contamination - in which case you had better call in before you tackle that job - we may need a sample 1st.)..
O.K. lets say you added 32 oz. and you can't get above 8.7 on the pH meter (make sure from time to time that you are getting accurate readings from your meter)..
O.K...you know that your pH meter isn't lying to you..what happened in this case is that the acidic nature of that particular batch has so much acid that the fortifier does not have enough acid neutralizer to counteract it..............NaOH (sodium hydroxide) is a very powerful acid neutralizer (don't get any on you) and it doesn't take a whole lot to bring up the pH...keeping in mind that no two batches of antifreeze are exactly the same...start off with 1 to 2 oz....granular or liquid sodium hydroxide can be purchased from a local chemical supply house...whether granual or liquid you must mix it with antifreeze and water 2 to 3 oz at a time..then it must be stirred and re-checked with your pH meter..work up 1 oz. at a time from there..when you hit 9 on your pH meter you are at spec..(but 9.5 to 10.0 is a better mix)..then pick up your money, get referrals from your customer
("Hey Bob, do you know anyone else that wants to stay legal and save money ??")....and go do it again..WARNING !!! never use sodium hydroxide INSTEAD of fortifier..use it WITH your fortifier ONLY as a last resort...(after you have used 32oz of fortifier)...if you do get sodium hydroxide on you it attacks the natural oils in your skin and burns and iches like hell...wash off with soap and water..then go get some skin lotion (Jergens, aloe vera, your wife will probably have something like this) rub it in ..use a lot of it ..and sooner or later it will get better...

Q-9 - Is there any quick-and-inexpensive phosphates field tests. Are there any phosphate-hungry flocs?

A-9 - There is a Phosphate kit available from Taylor, phone # 800-837-8548 for around $134.00, it's their model #K1103 ...we can cook you up some "phosphate-hungry-floc", but it's expensive around $30.00 per gal. your cost..4 gal per case...and you will have to use 1/4 gal. per 55 gal. drum...our fortifier contains no phosphates..

Q-10 - I have just been reading some literature on inhibitors used in various glycols. I understand borates and/or phosphates are used as buffers but I don't know what specific protection is offered by other additives such as molybdates or nitrates and nitrites. Does the glycol by itself offer any rust or corrosion protections? What are the standard inhibitors and what do they do?

Q-10 - Nitrites are used as oxygen scavangers (anti-oxidation compounds)that pick up free oxygen to inhibit rust (rust happens when oxygen comes in contact with metal)..once nitrites pick up the free oxygen they then become nitrates...nitrates and molybdates both form a mono-molecular film on the metal surfaces to protect against rust and electrolysis...the yellow metal inhibitors are protected by other chemicals that are almost to long to spell....anyway glycol does not offer any rust or corrosion protections...in fact it's corrosive by nature...which is why you need the fortifier in the first place...we are currently working on other automotive, equipment and cooling tower products...but its too early to alert the media on any of it..we will let the whole world know when its ready...I hope this answers some of your questions...feel free to call 800-553-0509 anytime...

Q-11 - Do we have anything on HD diesel truck formulations yet? How about HVAC gylcol-based systems? Also wanted to get samples of the "cool track strips" and any associated pamphlets.

A-11 - Yes we have developed a heavier duty formula...it has some extra inhibitors in it..but those who use S.C.A's will need to keep doing so..as far as the Heating-Ventilation-Air Conditioning industry the formula that you have is fine...you will have to figure out the logistics (barrell at a time ??...or ...loop into the system??)...if you want some samples of COOL-TRACK STRIPS you will need to contact Environmental Test Systems the phone # is 800-452-0215...

Q-12- What can you tell me about R.O. (reverse osmosis) and distillation
antifreeze recyclers??

A-12- Our understanding is that with distillation unless your temperature and pressure is exact you can wind up with contamination boil over .. if you have the right settings it will give you full strenght (not diluted) glycol .. R.O works great !! until the membranes become irreversibly plugged to the point where they will have to be replaced, which from what we hear is very expensive and in turn we feel that R.O is doomed to failure because it is not cost effective. If you take the money issue away, both distillation and R.O. can deliver a beautiful quality recycled antifreeze and are hard to beat for clarity and quality .. we just don't know of anyone who is willing to pay the price for that process ...